Eight great spots in deeper China: a travel guide

Visiting China and tired of big cities like Beijing and Shanghai? For the traveler looking to get out of the mass metropolis and explore other cities and/or remote destinations in the Middle Kingdom, here are eight recommendations:

Songpan
Songpan (located in the mountainous Aba Tibetan Qiang region of Sichuan) offers a wild west vision of China starkly different from what you will find in smoggy eastern cities. Songpan is a small, quaint ancient city surrounded by mountains where guided horseback and camping trips are available for $15 a day. Souvenir shops offer items ranging from cowboy hats and rugs to saddles and shawls… and for the traveler tired of Chinese stir fry, there are small cafes that offer international cuisine such as pizza and Israeli salad. Songpan is also conveniently close to the Jiuzhaigou and Yellow Dragon nature reserves­--the formers' clear mountain waters were featured prominently in the film Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon).

Suzhou and Tongli
Only 30 minutes west of Shanghai by bullet train, Suzhou has some resemblance to other massive Chinese cities. But unlike, say, the ultra-commercial Shanghai, Suzhou has still managed to maintain some of its old world charm. Famous for its gardens, Suzhou is also a good location to take in intimate performances of Kun opera or explore some hutong-style alleyways. Outside Suzhou, you will find a number of ancient villages including Tongli, a village that matches old canals and cormorant fishermen with China's most famous sex museum—an odd pairing if there ever was one.

Shangrila and Deqin County
Several locations in northwest Yunnan province have laid claim to being the namesake for the "Shangri-La" mentioned in James Hilton's 1933 novel Lost Horizons. The authorities in one city—formerly Zhongdian—went so far as renaming their district Shangrila in 2001. This "Shangrila" is pleasant town with numerous coffeeshops and youth hostels. But the real sights to be seen in the area are six hours farther up the road in Deqin County, just outside Tibet. Here, hardy trekkers can enter mountainous areas beyond the reach of cars--beneath the canopy of the awe-inspiring Kawagebo mountain range. Kawagebo, a 22,110-ft. peak, has never been climbed.

Yuanyang
Deep inside of Yunnan province and far beyond the range of train transit, Yuanyang is home to the Hani minority and some of the largest rice terraces in Asia. A spectator can view terraces going on seemingly forever from high in the hills. Accessing them can be difficult, though, without help from a local. Upon arrival at this "middle of nowhere," don't be surprised to see photographers from around the world toting camera gear that costs more than a new car.

Xijiang
Xijiang is a Miao village full of wooden cabins on the hillsides. Here, the tired traveler is sure to find local families happy to host you and feed you in exchange for a modest fee. This is a traditional town--and with the right amount of luck you can see long-standing holiday or wedding rituals there, such as street wedding banquets or the dragon parade. At times, electric power can be in short supply and the town does not have many modern amenities, but there are ample nearby hiking opportunities.

Yangshuo
Yangshuo, Guangxi (near Guilin) is one of the most frequently touristed small towns in China and often cited as one of the most beautiful regions in the world. Yangshuo is a good spot for renting a bike, viewing karst peaks in the countryside, or catching a river cruise down the Li River. Walking down the streets of the town itself--with its rock-climbing stores and many bars--a visitor could be forgiven for momentarily forgetting they were in China. At night, many tourists take in "Impressions of the Third Sister Liu," a grand production Zhang Yimou-directed production with a cast of 600, set on the banks of the Li River.

Yellow Mountains
These peaks are some of the most widely published images in China and deservedly so… the mountains can be magnificent in the mist. Hiking up the mountains is a chance to climb Chinese-style—through an arduous series of never-ending steps, with porters passing by you carrying loads of bottled water, food, and other necessities to the top. Or you can take the easy route by riding the cable car to the top. At the top of the mountains, lodging is available at Shanghai-style prices. Many of the best views are in winter, when the steps then can also be precariously icy.

Lugu Lake
Lugu Lake is a quiet and peaceful area with bargain lodges, located in a Mosuo minority area on the border between Sichuan and Yunnan provinces. There is not much to do there other than rent a dugout boat (and accompanying rowers) to go on the lake, but it is a fantastic place to relax. And sometimes, all the traveler needs is a good book, a place to rest, and a clear lakeside view.


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